SA/Namibia 2011 - Day 11. Calvinia to Karoo National Park.

View 11th September: Calvinia to Karoo National Park in a larger map

Today was yet another early start. We had 566 kilometers to ride today. Here is Tony - ready to roll.

 Tony outside Steenkamp se Woonstelle

It was cool to start with but again we were confident that the day would warm up later. We refuelled in Williston, but there did not appear to be anywhere for breakfast so early on a Sunday morning. No problem, we rode out of town with full tanks and Carnarvon on our radar - 147 km distant.

A few kilometers out of Williston we were overtaken - with a friendly wave - by a pair of BMW motorbikers.  We met these two guys a little later under a tree at the side of the road. We picked their brains about the question of re-routeing via Fraserburg. 'Mostly dirt,' they said. 'But no problem with that. We ride dirt roads at 180 kph!'

After a meeting under the tree we decided to stay on the asphalt because we did not have dirt bikes, we did not have dirt tyres, we had no dirt experience, and we were not young Evel Knievels. Carnarvon, Loxton, Victoria West, Three Sisters and Beaufort West - this was the track; long but not unreasonable.

We pulled into Carnarvon. We had traversed a stretch of the Karoo. There was a choice or two places to eat. We chose de Meerkat and a good choice it turned out to be. de Meerkat is a terrific restaurant. The owner's name is Breda and he made us very welcome.

de Meerkat

de Meerkat menu

There was only one slight disappointment; we wanted breakfast, not lamb, stew or springbok. 'No problem,' said Breda. 'We can do breakfast. What would you like?'

Eggs, bacon, sausage, toast and coffee - perfect! Two other positives: our two BMW biker friends were also in the restaurant - Louis and Daniel, from Somerset East and Perth, Australia, respectively AND rugby was on the TV - South Africa v Wales.

 South Africa 7 - 0 Wales at this point.

 This is the world inside de Meerkat.

This is the world outside.

All too soon we had to make tracks because there was still more than 300 km to go. We exchanged photos and emails with Daniel and Louis.

 Dan and Louis - intrepid riders heading to Somerset East.

After Loxton we rode into Victoria West for fuel and also for a look around.

Queen Victoria had quite an impact in the 19th Century.

 Old houses with history and corrugated iron roofs interest me.

 Victoria West is a town of character. Very quiet on a Sunday.

  zzzzzzzzz - Sunday in Victoria West!

Nice stoep. I always think of sundowners with stoeps!

 This is Tony (just visible). We were doing some freestyle exploring.

John K doing the same.

 An old wagon at Victoria Trading Post.

Low Emission Vehicle. Green engine.

Victoria Trading Post.

 We left Victoria West minus a few shirts and Rs. These lads remained plus a few shirts and Rs.

 Soon we were on the N12 heading for Three Sisters. Here they are. I think I can also see one Brother.

Now we turn right and head for Beaufort West.

We stopped briefly in Beaufort West in order to phone ahead to the Karoo National Park. Some months previously, on making the reservation, I said, 

'Do you mind motorcyclists riding into the park to the accommodation?'

'Not at all.' 

'Good - we'll see you on the 11th September about 17h00.'

'Okay. We look forward to seeing you. Just one thing ......!'

'What's that?'

'Phone us before you get to the gate and we will be able to tell you where the lions are!'
Errrr....!

We were assured on the phone that the lions were not in the vicinity of the gate, or the road to reception and the accommodation. We made some rapid calculations: motorbike acceleration vs lion acceleration. Then we checked the oil levels and lubed the chains.

 The Karoo National Park gate just south of Beaufort West.

Just about to enter the Karoo National Park - and trying to look unattractive to lions.

Maybe Gortex and Cordura wouldn't taste good.

It would be nice to stay for a while - but we were only over-nighting.

Our accommodation.

The motorbikes also had some down-time.

The walk back from the restaurant was illuminated. A very pleasant evening. 

Distance Today: 566 kilometers. 352 miles.

Trip Total: 3 268 kilometers. 2 031 miles.

SA/Namibia 2011 - Day 10. Springbok to Calvinia.

View 10th Sept: Springbok to Calvinia in a larger map

Day 10 was a very early start - dawn wake up in fact. Two South African guys called Andre and Piet kind of teamed up with us.

 Piet on the left. Andre on the right. 'Why don't you team up with us for a while?'

Piet: 'Man I just go with the flow.' Andre: 'Ja, that would be nice!'

We had met them in a bar the night before. Two 'characters' for sure. Andre was full of zip and pizzazz. Piet looked like Noah - flowing blonde hair and Buffalo Bill beard. They hale from Randfontein just west of Johannesburg. 

Andre

Andre in foreground behind my Tenere with his BMW1200GSA. Piet on right chatting with Andrew and Graeme.

Piet and John M.

The idea was to ride to Garies 116 km south of Springbok and stop there for breakfast. Getting up early and putting 100 km or so behind you really gets the job done.

Garies - ToeristeStal

So we pulled in to this delightful cafe/shop and ordered 8 breakfasts. We sat inside for the egg and bacon, but then moved out onto the stoep for some extra coffees before firing up and moving on. By now the sun had some warmth to it and we just enjoyed basking for a little while.

Enjoying the morning sun.

A SARTours coach pulled in and a lot of old people got off. Shame. Most of them were nearly as old as US!

Graeme fired up first, in fact, and went down the hill to the petrol station. He demonstrated an impressive wheelie on his way back up the hill to join our formation, but in doing so, we soon discovered, ripped his valve askew (the wheel's that is) which meant some emergency improvisation - in the form of tyre mousse - and high pressure inflation. Andre had spotted the 'flat' tyre as Graeme was joining the N7. The 'repair' was effected after a return to the garage. Well spotted Andre. Graeme was now riding on about 50 psi - but it didn't seem to phase him. The tyre gave no more trouble, but a few days later in heavy rain on Franschhoek Pass, Graeme found keeping grip on the tarmac, with the added complication of a Toyota Fortuna up his  exhaust pipe, somewhat tricky - but he came through!

We were heading for Vanrhynsdorp (refuel and koeksusters) from where we would be departing our re-traced northbound track and taking the R27 northeast to Nieuwoudtville and then east to Calvinia.

N Khoisan Project

How could I not stop to photograph this unusual structure? Isn't it beautiful? As I have said before, the N7 is my favourite road. I think that it is one of South Africa's best kept secrets. Note the flowers too. We are some way south, and the flowers are still adorning the veld en masse. But we hadn't seen the best yet!

A tortoise humouring Andrew!

N7 approaching Vanrhynsdorp. 

....... 'Brights' is good!

Just about to turn off to Vanrhynsdorp.

...... 'Brights' mean people (cars, trucks, other motorbikes and tortoises) can usually see you coming!

After Vanrhynsdorp ........ a great little town - and where we stayed with Heila Brand northbound at Aan't Dorpseind. S 31 36 32 E 018 45 02. Remember? ..........

Aan't Dorpseind

....... we turned onto the R27 for the 122 km run to Calvinia our destination for today. I had previously ridden up Vanrhyns Pass (Ride Report: February 2010) and I wanted Tony, Mike, John, Andy and Graeme to experience this magnificent ascent. Andre and Piet decided that Cape Town and not Calvinia and beyond was to be their aiming point.  We would miss them.

The sun was shining and we could see the mountain range ahead. I think that it is called the Bokkeveldberge.  

Beauty ..... everywhere.

I love this land. I was kind of bonding with the motorbike too. It never missed a beat in all 7 494 km.

 Our position is confirmed.

 The scenery is wonderful.

We rode up here.

Vanrhynsdorp is back there ..............

 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 6. All present and correct half way up the pass. 10-sec timer worked more or less.

 Mike F - nearing the top.

 The penultimate bend before the top and the plateau to Calvinia.

Pretty much the top of Vanrhyns Pass.

Now riding more or less due east to Calvinia. The camera is unable to do this array of colour justice. But it was lovely.

 Tony E thought so too - maybe his picture will be better.

 The flowers and the colours between Nieuwoudtville and Calvinia were absolutely brilliant.

 Sheep in the flowers.

 What's not to like about this?

  I am a tough biker - really!

Graeme W taking a photograph from the saddle of his blue Tenere. Tony's BMW 650 parked behind.

 More riding .........

 ........ more stopping.

 This is not a five-bar gate, but it has a charm of its own.

 These flowers were just beyond the gate.

 We got to Calvinia in the Hantamberg at about 16h30.

The place that I had booked accommodation was Steenkamp's Gastewoonstel.

We pulled up outside.

Steenkamp's Gastewoonstel is pink ..... and green. Nice!

Self catering accommodation.

 We parked at the back ......
(I have cheated - this pic was taken last year!)

....... which was charming.

 The view from the front was good.

 The view of the front was good.

 The view of the stoep was good.


There are two apartments. This is Mike at No. 2.

Myl 250 Restaurant

Across the road stands the Myl 250. We went there for a few drinks and dinner. We met some lovely local people and we had a very pleasant evening. 

 Karen - from Namibia originally. Her husband was not far away - surprisingly! 

 John K took this very artistic picture........

......... and this one.

It was time to hit the hay. We like Calvinia --- a lot.

Distance Today: 392 km. 244 miles.

Trip Total: 2 702 km. 1 679 miles.